Dressing for Smaller Gentlemen

When it comes to getting dressed up, regardless if it’s tailoring or otherwise, those of you who have a smaller-than-average frame and who are quite slim have been spoiled for choice.

 Lorenzo Cifonelli - Parisian Bespoke Tailor is a great inspiration on how to dress well

Introduction

When it comes to getting dressed up, regardless if it’s tailoring or otherwise, those of you who have a smaller-than-average frame and who are quite slim have been spoiled for choice when it comes to clothing in recent years. However, despite the fact that you’ve been spoiled for choice has meant that you are completely oversaturated and nearly have too many options to choose from. Everywhere you look, there is the constant stream of very slim suits, shirts and trousers etc that you can grab from any number of your typical high-street retailers. However, for those looking to invest in their wardrobe and classic style, there are a few things you need to consider before you start spending your hard earned money. These are simple things to keep in mind when you are making purchasing decisions as it will ensure that you won’t have too many costly mistakes (we’re all bound to make a mistake now and again). Again, this will be a dive into more classic men’s style but many of these lessons can be transferred over to very casual looks as well. This is all backed up by the experience that Damien & I both had in menswear retail, with years dealing with gents of all shapes and sizes.

 Our very own Damien Broderick sporting a classic glen check sports jacket combination as well as our own Raphoe ties

Dress for Your Build

For most men, regardless of their body type, the main thing that guys get wrong is not dressing for your body type. For the slimmer guys, the thought process typically goes one of two ways - go big and baggy or very slim. This is the wrong approach to have this either way of dressing will just make it apparent how slim you are. The incredibly slim looks will accentuate your slim build whereas an oversized look will look like you’re drowning in fabric - neither of which looks good. As for with bigger gents, you need to keep proportions in mind as this will ensure your ensembles will be more cohesive and harmonious. Go for a similar fit on top and on the bottom to make sure that you won’t look jarring to the eye. This goes for both the very classic tailored looks as well as the very casual outfits. 

 Alain Delon - French Actor & Style Icon is great inspiration for suited and more casual looks, especially with the classic French twist on it

Tips & Tricks - Suiting & Formal Looks

When it comes to dressing in tailoring, the name of the game is to make you look bigger but it’s a very delicate dance as it can be overdone and it will make you look ridiculous. As with the bigger guys, you should opt for a more streamlined cut rather than something very slim or very full-cut. A more streamlined cut will fit better over the body as a slimmer cut will accentuate your slim build. Instead, this cut will show off a slim silhouette but not so much that it will make you look like a twig. When it comes to the details of tailoring, everything should be done to harmonize with your build and make you look taller. A small amount of shoulder padding will build up the shoulders making you look more muscular. The lapels can be on the slimmer side but we would recommend going for a width that fits about halfway to the shoulder (about 3-3.5 inches for most men) rather than an incredibly wide lapel as this will look too over-the-top and further accentuate your smaller build. The button stance for the jacket, as for every man, it should be closer to the natural waist as this will accentuate the V-shape from the shoulders to the waist, enhancing the silhouette. A slightly longer jacket that sits around mid-seat (about the bottom of your behind) will do the same thing. Other details such as pocket flaps and vents will be left up to personal taste. A single-breasted jacket will look well, but don’t be afraid to experiment with a double-breasted jacket as this will add bulk to your build, making you appear bigger. As for trousers, like with bigger gentlemen, a higher rise is best. This will be due to the higher rise making you more proportional and elongating the leg length, thus making you appear taller. Like with the jacket, the trousers shouldn’t be too skinny or wide as this will make you look odd. Instead, a slim tapered leg would be best here as the tapering of the leg will ensure you are comfortable and continue a slim and streamlined look. Pleats aren’t a bad option as this will again add some bulk so a single pleat might be best here or else slim double pleats. In regards to fabrics, heavier weight fabrics will not just add some bulk to your frame, but they will also drape over your body beautifully. Adding a cuff to the trousers will be good as it can act as an anchor, pulling the trousers down so they sit nicely on the shoes. As a slimmer guy, you can afford to be a little bolder with your patterns so slightly bigger checks and bolder stripes are your friend.

  A very simple ensemble by James Dean in a classic tee and jeans

Learn from the Best

Here are a few worthwhile examples of well-dressed smaller gentlemen from a host of different backgrounds and professions. All of these gentlemen are known for dressing well and are great sources of inspiration to draw from.